France is known for being the land of baguettes, stinky cheeses and flavoursome wine. If I told you to summarise France in one word a lot of people would say Paris. One city that doesn't get a lot of love is the south western city of Limoges. Situated in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, which boast up to 27 million tourists per year, Limoges is the second most populated place city in the region after Bordeaux. Not only is Limoges a tourist hotspot for Brits flocking to this hidden gem every summer, it's a popular destination for British migrants, myself included, to settle due to it's sunny climate and affordable real estate, with a British population of around 36,000 and growing. So if you're in search of a French getaway without breaking the bank and are keen to explore France beyond Paris then you need to add Limoges to your travel bucket list. Today I'm going to share 10 of my must see attractions and activities in this often under appreciated city which you can use on your next trip to the city of porcelain.
1. Visit the Vieux Limoges
One thing that I love about Limoges is it's beautiful architecture. Limoges is a Gallo Roman city seeped in history dating back to the 10th century Roman city. The winding roads and cobbled streets give it an otherworldly feel and you instantly are transported back into medieval times. When visiting, I highly recommend visiting the famous Quartier de la Boucherie. Being in the heart of the Limousin region which is known for a particular breed of beef, Limoges' boucherie district used to be home to abbatoirs and butchers shops. Nowadays, you can grab a cheap beer at the oldest bar in Limoges "Le Duc Etienne", browse independent shops and boutiques and visit the serene Chapelle Saint Aurélien. If you feel peckish, in the heart of rue de la boucherie is "La Locale", a cafe/ grocers which serves, as you may have guessed, local dishes and produce all year round and is a great spot to sit on terrasse and grab a drink with friends or a bite to eat.
Plus, if you're travelling to Limoges in the autumn, each year there is a festival, La Frairie des Petits Ventres which is dedicated to celebrating Limousin cuisine. It takes place on Rue de la boucherie every third Friday of October. Take the opportunity to be adventurous and try dishes such as Langue de Veau (beef tongue) made from beef originating from the Limousin countryside, there's a delicacy to suit everyone.
2. Explore the Cathedral
When visiting Limoges, don't forget to visit the second part of the old town is located in the 'Cité' neighbourhood which is just a 10 minute walk from the Quartier de la Boucherie. This area is beautiful with an array of fountains and small restaurants and bar, such as L'Irlandais (my favourite Irish bar in Limoges) and La Crêperie de la Cathedrale (they make exceptional galettes, which are a type of savoury crêpe from Bretagne). As you meander along these cobbled streets you can find the Cathedral Saint Étienne. The building is one of the remarkable Gothic monuments in Limoges. The Cathedral is free to enter and open everyday with the exception of January 1st.
The Cité neighbourhood also hosts a monthly flea market, 'Les Puces de la cité' on the second Sunday of every month. From plant sales, food trucks and antique pop ups you really can stumble upon a treasure trove.
3. Wander through the Jardin de l'évêché
Just a few steps behind the Cathedral, you find yourself in the botanic gardens of Limoges. Perfect for picnicking or taking a leisurely stroll, you have a birdseye view of Limoges's famed riverside. Many cultural events take place throughout the year in the gardens; earlier this year in February , I was lucky enough to attend a light show in the Jardin de l'éveché, "L'odysee lumineuse" hosted by Mille et Une Lumieres showcasing mythical creatures, animals and giant sculptures.
If you're more of a history buff, throughout the year, the tourism office hosts guided tours showing Limoges from beneath the surface, these underground visits can be booked via the tourism office and there are plenty of locations to explore such as le souterrain de la règle and la crypte de saint martial (Limoges' patron saint).
For those who like to party, the Cité neighbourhood annually hosts the "Urbaka" street arts festival at the end of June in which highlights a range of talent including puppetry, acrobatics, theatre and live music. Plus for night owls throughout the summer months, there are a series of raves which happen in the botanic gardens, playfully named "Bamboches Botaniques" these free DJ sets are a great way to enjoy the open space and gather with friends as you party the night away.
4. Stroll along the Bords de Vienne
Just a stones throw away from the Botanic gardens you will find the Bords de Vienne, which is a riverside walkway traversing the Vienne River. This spot is great if you want to get out of downtown Limoges and connect with nature. During the pandemic I used to run along both sides of the river, which can get you working up a quite a sweat. I like to call Limoges the city of bridges, there are four notable ones; 'Pont Saint Étienne', 'Pont Neuf', 'Pont Saint Martial' and 'Nouveau Pont/Pont Georges Guingouin'. All of these bridges are great spots for an impromptu photoshoot and they all lead to the quieter and southern part of the city, including Parc Auzette. It is another great park to visit on your stroll and has a playground perfect if you have kids (or just want to indulge your inner child).
5. Party at La Friche des Ponts
Something I look forward to every year in Limoges is La Friche des Ponts and it's one thing I always take my friends and family to when they visit. Running veery week from Wednesday- Saturday from the end of May to the end of August , La Friche des Ponts is the place to be for a apero and a boogie afterwork. With a large selection of food trucks, sample cuisine from all over the world under fairy lights and evening entertainment. From live concerts to djs and samba bands, every night at La Friche des Ponts is a fiesta!
6. Delve into the world of Porcelain
Limoges is know for two things; porcelain and the verb 'limoger' which can be translated as to be sacked, dismissed or even displaced. This originated in World War 1 when General Joffre sent disgraced senior staff which he considered useless to the city of Limoges, which was far away from the frontline. Despite this rather negative connotation amongst French people, Limoges is known globally as being the city of Porcelain and a pioneer in this industry. I've travelled to museums in other countries and have seen porcelain from Limoges on display. Porcelain makers from Limoges are the crème de la crème of their industry and are very proud of what they create. Even if crafts and ceramics aren't your thing, I really do urge you to visit the Musée national Adrien Dubouché. It's a great day out, you get to see the history of porcelain and the process of how it's made, with interactive section, which is great if you're travelling with kids. Since my visit, I have a greater understanding and appreciation for all of the hard work and attention that is put into this craft and I believe you will too. If you're still keen to learn about porcelain and want to see how it's made, then I recommend the Musée des Casseaux which is a 19th century factory which has a huge kiln.
7. Sample French Cuisine at Les Halles
Like most French towns, Limoges has a food hall, called 'Les Halles Centrales ' in French. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 7am, this large indoor food market is a great place to pick up local produce and immerse yourself in French cuisine. Les Halles is firm favourite amongst locals and tourists and you can often see late night revellers spilling in from 7am to enjoy another cheeky glass of wine and some oysters, or rotisserie chicken (I'm speaking from experience and would 100% recommend) My favourite restaurant is Bar Jo, which has a wonderful terrasse where you can have a coffee (or glass of wine if you're in the mood) and people watch for hours, as well as indulge in succulent French specialities.
Plus, during the summer months, Les Halles is exceptionally open late certain Friday evenings for 'Nocturnes des Halles de Limoges". It's a great initiative to bring the community together and another opportunity to meet up with friends for apéro (pre drinks), but get there early to secure a table as they go fast! In the summer months you might get lucky with some outdoor entertainment, just outside of the food hall is Place de la Motte, a frequented spot for activities such as open air salsa dancing.
8. Learn about Limoges's powerful resistance heritage
This next recommendation is a bit heavy but if you decide to visit Limoges (which I hope I've convinced you to do) you cannot miss the Musée de la résistance. This year on August 21st marks 80 years since France was liberated in the Second World War. The legacy of the Resistance is everywhere in Limoges, from monuments in Place Jourdan to streets being names after martyrs who lost their lives defending their freedoms and country. The museum has put on a special exhibition, available until September 23rd dedicated to this historical event.If you're visiting Limoges or it's surrounding areas between August 15th-18th there are a lot of events to commemorate the liberation.
If you own a car and are open to traveling, near Limoges there is a town known as Oradour-Sur Glane , which has gained notoriety across France following a WWII massacre that claimed the lives of nearly 500 individuals. I'll have a blog post coming up on this soon, it's a very harrowing and tragic place, but due to the current political climate, I think that it is important to remind ourselves of the damages of fascism and senseless hatred and killing.
9. Go shopping in some of our wonderful boutiques
Limoges is the 27th most populous city in France yet personally I believe it has the most shops per square metre. We're really fortunate to have a ton of independent shops and boutiques and a huge 'friperie' culture (thrifting). Downtown the two most popular shopping roads are rue du consulat and rue du clocher which are parallel to one another. This is where you'll find the big name brands and chain shops. We also have a Galerie Lafayette (which is kind of like John Lewis/ Harrods) a shopping centre Centre Commercial Saint Martial which has an array of shops ( JD sports, Mango, H&M). One of my favourite shops is Boogaloo which essentially is a concept store which has loads of wacky and creative items from posters, jewellery to fashion accessories. They've partnered with a local artist to create a range of posters and post cards showcasing the main hotspots of Limoges and they are stunning.
For souvenirs, I would recommend heading to La Valise a Macarons just off Place de la Motte, which makes, you've guessed it, amazing macarons. However, I wouldn't be a true Limogeaude if I didn't mention Bijou Madeleine. My partner recently introduced me to them and they are a Limousin based bakery that specialises in madeleines and biscuits and boy are they good! They've recently opened a new store just behind the train station which functions are a factory/ madeleine museum. There are tons of flavours and they truly capture the essence of Limoges.
10. Admire our beautiful train station
This final recommendation may sound random but this was actually one of the selling points that was used when I was recruited to become a lecteur at the University of Limoges. I've already mentioned how much I love the architecture in Limoges, but our train station is simple divine. It actually has been voted the most beautiful train station in France and is consistently ranked in the top 10 in France. It was even featured in a Chanel perfume advert a few years back! Obviously the only reasons to go the a train station are to arrive or depart from a destination, but I highly recommend that you take a quick visit, even stop through the gardens Champs de Juillet (but avoid at night) which has beautiful fountains and sculptures. The train station has recently undergone a huge refurbishment project which includes a restaurant Leo Lea, which I haven't yet tried but has excellent reviews.
Bonus recommendation: Attend a basketball match
Did you know that Limoges has a professional basketball team? CSP or Limoges Cercle Saint Pierre has been around for almost 100 years and has a great reputation in the basketball world of France. If you're in town when the season starts, I've been told that the atmosphere at the matches are electric and truly a great experience.
Notable Mentions
Aquarium de Limoges
Another recommendation if you have kids, or just love animals the Limoges Aquarium is a great place to spend an afternoon and with over 3500 sea creatures there's plenty to see! Get your tickets here.
Basilique de Saint Michel
Much smaller than the Cathedral but a beautiful church in the heart of the city, take a wander through
Basilique de Saint Michel and admire it's beautiful architecture.
Musée de Beaux Arts
If you're not into history or ceramics but love fine art, the Musée de Beaux Arts is for you. Located in Jardin de l'éveché, it's a beautiful museum with a ton of different exhibitions on. Plus don't forget that all museums have free entry on the first Sunday of every month!
Pavillion de Verdurier
The Pavillion de Verdurier is a beautiful building located in Place Saint Pierre in downtown Limoges. This former bus station is ornately decorated and is now used for pop up art exhibitions and free local events. It's definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.
Rue Charles Michels (AKA Rue de la soif)
A popular drinking spot for tourists and locals alike, I couldn't leave Rue Charles Michels off the list. Filled with bars and restaurants and affectionately known by locals as rue de la soif, this is the place to be if you're in search of a good time!
Place Denis Dussoubs
Another hotspot with bars and restaurants situated on the Denis Dussoubs roundabout. I highly recommend 'Le Paris' for a meal and 'Orge et Houblon', which is a specialty beer bar!
And there we have it, my guide to visiting the city of Limoges! I've had the absolute pleasure of living here for almost four years and every day I stumble upon something new. Limoges has had huge investment in development and culture in these past few years and there is so much to see and do, I couldn't include it all. It truly is a must see destination to visit if you're visiting the Limousin region. Next up in my series, Lac de Saint Pardoux!
For more amazing photos follow Mathilde Bruzat @kebabita onInstagram!
Comments